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A wide variety of brocaded
articles have been made by Middle Eastern weavers, especially Yoruk,
Turkmen, and Kurdish tribal weavers in Anatolia. Elaborately ornamented
storage sacks called ala
cuval
have been made with brocading,
as well as saddlebags, tent panels, hangings and covers.
Unfortunately, as
nomads have settled into village life and have taken up pile carpet
weaving, the old brocade skills have gradually disappeared. Only in a few
places do tribal weavers continue to produce this wonderful, but rather
difficult textile art. Several quite different types of brocading have
produced a rich variety of patterning;
Warp substitution weaves
this
construction is the exact opposite of weft-substitution. Both structures
are plain weaves in which yarns are substituted to make designs, but
warp-substitution fabrics are
warp-faced and it is the warps that
substitute, one for another.
The warp yarns are
spun and plied tightly, so they are tough and elastic, then they are
jammed so closely together on the loom that when the fabric is woven, the
wefts are hidden. Warps are left loose on the back of the fabric where
they are not part of the pattern. This weave has been used primarily for
tent bands and sturdy striped covers called
jajims.
The design options
with warp-substitution are severely limited, since warps of contrasting
colors must be incorporated in nearly equal proportions to maintain proper
warp tension. Many designs which originated in this ancient technique have
become important in pile-rug design repertoires. Designs tend to migrate
from restrictive techniques like this one to less restrictive techniques.
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